New Delhi: Culture Shock One Year Later

"The worth of any journey can always be measured by the difficulties encountered along the way." A.W. Tozer

Today Michael and I have officially made it one whole year in India.

Wow.

It's still hard for me to believe that we live here. We actually live here. We've learned so much in the past year: everything from how to hail down a rickshaw walla to how to navigate through one of Delhi's busy outdoor markets.

Even the mundane things like finding the best places to buy produce, hiring a garbage man, or getting DSL installed have all been huge learning experiences.

Sometimes culture shock has gotten the best of us and we've had a hard time processing this complex place known as India. But it's been an incredible experience. An incredibly frustrating experience at times, but still, an experience.

We have another six months to go before Michael's assignment is completed. While I think we'll be ready to move on, I know that a piece of my heart will be left here in India.

When Jacob wrestled with the angel, the angel touched his hip and Jacob walked away limping for the rest of his life. He was forever impacted and changed by that moment. In the same way, we have been deeply impacted by the past year here in Delhi. 

We have wrestled with India and India has touched our hips. And when we finally leave this place we're going to walk differently than we did before we came. It's changed our perspectives, shown us our need, and most importantly, shown us more about the nature of God.

The following videos are a presentation given to international students at Columbian Business School. Michael and I watched it over the weekend and had some good laughs. Even though this video addresses culture shock within an American university context, we could still totally relate to what this student went through.

So if you've ever wondered if other people experience culture shock in the U.S.,  or what culture shock is like, check these videos out!

Bollywood Birthday Dancing

Unlike most Americans, Indians use their body language to communicate more than their facial expressions.  Once particular expression I really enjoy is their style of dancing. 

I recently went to a birthday party where the little girl and her friends were dancing to different Bollywood songs. It was so charismatic and lively.

It reminded me of a story I once heard about a man who went to heaven in a vision. In the vision he saw King David dancing before the Lord. The angel told the man that David danced like that day and night before Jesus. Sometimes when I’m by myself, listening to worship music, I like to dance. I imagine being like King David in that vision and dancing my heart out before Jesus.

I think in heaven there will be lots of dancing. All the peoples and cultures of the world will dance before the Lord day and night. Irish dancing, Indian dancing, Turkish dancing, Russian dancing; there will be so much happiness and jubilation. We won’t be able to stop.

I’m thankful for times of celebration and the expressions of song and dance.

New Year, New Apartment... New Life in New Delhi

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year everyone! I apologize for how long it's been since my last post. It's been quite an experience moving into our apartment!

We spent our first night in our apartment December 16th and it's been a slow process getting settled in since then. If we could say anything about it, we would sum it up as one huge learning curve in expectations.

I'll start with the cleaning. Everything is dirty. Everything. All the time. And for those of you who know me, you know I like a clean, well-kept home. So this has been my first reality check.

Michael took time off from work for my birthday and Christmas, but we had no idea we would be spending that entire time cleaning. I mean, I realize when you move into a new place there is always some cleaning to be done, but this reaches a whole other level.

I'll acknowledge that the amount of cleaning was so surprising partly because our apartment is quite large compared to what we had in the U.S. We lived in a 800-something square foot apartment back in Kansas. Upgrade that to a 2800-something square foot apartment and my cleaning regiment just increased by nearly four times.

But the bigger issue is that we live in a different environment now. Suburban America is very clean with virtually no pollution (I know, I know, you may think you have pollution, but trust me, you don't). The air quality in Delhi, on the other hand, is very poor. There are a number of reasons why, but the result is that all countertops and basically anything else with an exposed surface also has to be dusted on a daily basis. That includes the light switches, outlets, doors, plants, or anything else we leave out uncovered. Even our groceries must be wiped down before we put them away. Everything is coated in dust everywhere you go.

The bottoms of my slippers at about the half-day mark

Delhi is also a very dirty place - as in literal dirt is everywhere. It gets on your clothes, your linens, your walls - everything. And because of that, our floors, which are entirely marble - with the exception of the laminate wood flooring in our master bedroom - requires daily mopping. And even though they may be mopped every morning, by the end of the day our slippers and socks are entirely black with dirt.

The bathrooms alone are a day-long job. We were told by one of our neighbors that he believes our apartment had been vacant somewhere around two years. And it was probably during that time that the hard water stains we have found in the bathrooms accumulated.

The living room balcony

Of course the lack of drinkable water is probably one of the more notorious problems plaguing India, but the poor water quality is also hard on marble and other home fixtures. 

Marble on average costs about $1-$3 a square foot in India, so it's the flooring of choice in most homes. It has a cool surface that makes it great for the sustained 120°F degree temperatures in Delhi - but it's easily etched and damaged by acid or calcium build-up from water. Unfortunately I've had to resort to using harsh chemicals to remove the stains in the bathrooms, which in turn has taken away the polish of the marble. But, I see that as a small price to pay in order to have clean bathrooms.

So the initial cleaning of our apartment has been an incredible task (and one that is still not complete). But whatever problems existed before didn't suddenly stop with our arrival either...

The second part of this whole moving-in process involves (and apparently will continue to involve) having various plumbing and electrical work done. I can count on one hand the amount of days we've gone without a repairman or representative from LG or Whirlpool or Daikin or Venus in our apartment. There is constantly someone working on a geyser (or what's officially known as a storage water heater), installing something, fixing leaks, tinkering with the electrical wiring, replacing an appliance or fixture, or more recently moving furniture into our apartment.

Booze I found hidden under one of
the bathroom sinks

And unfortunately, they usually don't clean up after they've "completed" a job. We have been told that this might be due to the "nanny culture" that exists here. Even if you weren't affluent enough to have an Ayah as a child, you still had a mother or older sister who took on the task of cleaning up after you. So while it seems disrespectful (and oh believe me, I really struggle on this note), it simply does not even enter their mind that they should be responsible for the mess they make.

So there are almost always wet bootprints randomly left throughout the halls and rooms. If they've been working on a geyser, there are usually puddles of standing water that need to be squeegeed into a drain. When they installed the curtain tracks, they obviously needed to drill holes in the wall to mount the rods - but they didn't bother to sweep up the piles of wood and drywall all over the floor. Same story when the DSL was installed.

Geyser explosion? Not to worry!
Ashley to the rescue!

Recently the pipe exiting the geyser in the kitchen burst from the wall, spewing gallons (liters, if you please) of water all over our dishwasher and microwave. In a matter of seconds we had water running under the kitchen door and out into the hallway coming towards the bedrooms and dining room. And if once wasn't enough, it happened again the following morning 5 minutes after the plumber had "fixed" the problem and left.

Throw into the mix communication barriers, incomplete or poor quality workmanship, people not arriving when they say they will, and you have your work cut out for you. Not to mention, nothing is just a quick fix. At any given time, there are at least four people involved in fixing a problem - and if they can shift responsibility to another party, they usually will. It all takes hours and multiple trips to the market so the repairmen can go to get "more parts".

You put the pipe IN the hole. Simple,
right? WRONG.

And since you never know when a repairman will return, it makes it nearly impossible to plan to goto the store or leave the apartment. (Once again, this seems to be a symptom of the "nanny culture". Most people expect that even if the owners are not home, there will still be a household manager, or at the very least a housekeeper available to receive visitors or repairmen.)

So despite the fact we've been here since October, it just now feels like we're getting our feet wet (no pun intended!).

There are some mornings when we wake up, groan and say to ourselves: "I am sooo not in the mood for India today!" But looking at the big picture and not fixating on all the little things going wrong make a big difference. (All that talk about this being an investment and not just an experience is really hitting home.)

Our time here will be what we make it. Being intentional with taking our troubles to Jesus in prayer and letting His grace rule our lives is the only way, as far as I can see, to avoid becoming bitter or depressed. And thankfully God has supplied us with a close network of friends who are also going on this journey alongside us.

The good news is our ocean shipment from home is supposed to be delivered this Friday and the rest of our permanent furniture should arrive Saturday. It'll be like Christmas, except we know exactly what we're getting...... or will we? ;)

Can you share a little about a difficult season in your life? What did you do to endure or overcome it?

Our New Delhi apartment

Just in time for Thanksgiving, please enjoy this short video of our new apartment in New Delhi. Leave a comment and let us know what you think!

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

House Hunters International: New Delhi Blog Edition

Deviating slightly from my normal posts, I thought I'd share how our apartment search is going in the spirit of one of our favorite programs: "House Hunters International". (We are obviously in no way affiliated with HGTV or the House Hunters International show, this post serves only as an entertaining means to share our apartment viewing experience!)

------------------------------

On this episode of House Hunters International: Meet Michael and Ashley, a young couple transferring their residence from suburban Overland Park, Kansas to the bustling, captial city of New Delhi, India.

Michael, who works as a operations manager for a global cellular network provider, and his wife Ashley are looking for a place that meets the company's budget while retaining some of their familiar western amenities.

They've been given 30 days to find a place they like, which may seem like plenty of time, but in a city of 22.2 million people, finding an apartment that gives them breathing room may be easier said than done.

Their wishlist: They have requested to see flats located on the top floor for safety and privacy. They're hoping to find a three to four bedroom apartment with updated bathrooms, a nice balcony or private terrace to get away from the busy city-life, and a kitchen with plenty of cabinet space for all of Ashley's cooking and bakeware.

Will the "Land of Color" present more cultural barriers than they bargained for? And will they be able find a place that agrees with their tastes and with their company's budget? Or will they have to make some big adjustments in their expectations?

Their real-estate agent, is an Indian native and experienced in working with expatriates and foreigners. She has selected properties for them to look at located throughout the New Friends Colony, Maharani Bagh, and Defense Colony areas. Let's take a look:

Apartment #1: The "Sweet" Balcony
The first flat today is located in Maharani Bagh. The property is seven years old with three bedrooms, three baths and 2,000 square feet. It's nestled in a quiet location near the fly-over that connects directly into Noida, where Michael will be working. Maharani Bagh is a calm area and home to a relatively large retirement community. Michael and Ashley seem to think they'll get a long well here, but what will they think of their first property in this foreign place? (Click on the pictures for a larger view)

(Yes, that would be a man peeing in some bushes in the top-left corner
of this photo.)

Outside of the property.

Just inside the property, the flat we'll be
seeing is on the second floor.

The entry way and front door.

The main hallway.

Living and dining area (the wiring is for an AC unit).

Kitchen.

Master bedroom

Master closet room.

Master bathroom.

Balcony outside of the master bedroom. (Connected to Guest Bedroom #1)

Additional views outside of the balcony.

A grassy area on the ground floor of the property.

Guest bedroom #2 (pic 1).

Guest bedroom #2 (pic 2).

Guest bathroom #2 (the appliance attached to
the wall is a water heater, every bathroom will
have one).

Terrace and servant's quarters (terrace has option for our exclusivity).

Their Reactions:
Michael: "This place had a sweet balcony!"
Ashley: "The bedrooms are on the small side, and I'm not in love with the kitchen, but it has potential."

------------------------------

Apartment #2: A Peptol Bismol Paradise

Property number two comes with three bedrooms and three baths and 2,100 square feet. It's a top floor flat settled in the posh district of Defense Colony. Real estate comes at a premium here as foreigners and Delhitians alike flock to the area for it's updated apartment floor plans and amenities. Nearby Lajpat Nagar is a favorite market among locals and the proximity to some of Delhi's most popular restaurants makes this an ideal location. But will an appealing location be enough to overlook some of this property's more "colorful" qualities?

The entryway and main living area.

Kitchen.

The prison bars outside the kitchen.

Somebody let the landlord know, they missed this room.

Bedoom #1.

Bathroom #1.

Bedoom #2.

Bathroom #2.

Bedroom #3

Bathroom #3 (pic 1).

Bathroom #3 (pic 2).

Their reactions:

Michael: "Well... chalta hai."

Ashley: "It looks like Holi came here and celebrated pink all over the walls."

------------------------------

Apartment #3: The Penthouse

Situated in New Friend's Colony, apartment number three has four bedrooms and four baths with 2,800 square feet of space. Another top floor unit; it includes a common roof-top terrace for the building. New Friends Colony is a less lively area than Defense Colony, but still conveniently located near to the DND-Flyover Michael will use on his commute to Noida. But will the want for larger private balconies and possible water damage keep Michael and Ashley at bay?

Entry gate leading onto the property.

Parking garage on the ground floor.

The door for the stairwell and lift, taking you inside the building.

Front door and entryway.

Living or dining area.

Looking back on the living and dining area facing the front door.

Kitchen.

More of the kitchen (look to the ceiling, above
the cabinets for possible water damage).

Prayer room.

Hallway coming from the bedrooms, looking
back towards the living room, kitchen and
front door.

Bedroom #1.

Bathroom #1.

Bedroom #2.

Bathroom #2.

Bedroom #3.

Bathroom #3.

Bedroom #4.

Bathroom #4.

View of the roof-top terrace (common and not exclusive).

Another view of the rooftop terrace.

Their reactions:

Michael: "I like this place, it has a good feel and layout."

Ashley: "Me too, I think it's been my favorite so far. I'm just really concerned about the water damage in the kitchen."

------------------------------

So which one will they choose? Apartment one has a convenient location, three bedrooms and an accommodating personal balcony. But Ashley isn't too keen on the bedroom sizes or age of the building.

Apartment number two had updated bathrooms and an unique open kitchen into the living area. But getting the walls repainted may be prove to be difficult in negotiations with the landlord.

And lastly, apartment number three was a spacious top floor unit, complete with updated bathrooms and an appealing layout. However, it lacked the balconies Michael and Ashley were hoping for and the  prospect of water damage in the kitchen may turn out to make this property more trouble than it's worth.

Find out after we return...